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Your Suiting Glossary: Every Term You Need to Know to Look Like a Suiting Expert

25th September 2023

When it comes to men's fashion, few things are as timeless and sophisticated as a well-tailored suit. Whether you're attending a formal event or heading to the office, knowing the ins and outs of suiting can elevate your style and make you look like a true suiting expert. To help you navigate the world of suits, we've compiled a comprehensive glossary of key terms that every suiting enthusiast should know. From fabrics to fit, here's everything you need to know to master the art of suiting. 

Bespoke: The highest level of suit customisation, bespoke suits are made entirely from scratch to fit your measurements and specifications. It also goes by tailor-made and custom-made. (This is what we do at Wil Valor). 

Made-to-Measure: A step below bespoke, made-to-measure suits are pre-designed but modified to fit your measurements. 

Off-the-Rack: Also known as ready-to-wear, off-the-rack suits are mass-produced and available in standard sizes. 

Suit Separates: When the jacket and trousers of a suit are sold individually, allowing you to mix and match sizes and styles. 

Super Number: Refers to the quality and fineness of the wool used in a suit. The higher the super number, the finer and more luxurious the fabric. For example, Super 120’s wool is not as fine as Super 170’s wool. 

Wool: The most common fabric used in suits, known for its durability, breathability, and ability to drape well. 

Cashmere: A luxury fabric made from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, known for its exceptional softness and warmth. 

Linen: A lightweight and breathable fabric ideal for warm weather, characterised by its natural wrinkles and casual appearance. 

Twill: A type of weave characterised by its diagonal pattern, often used in high-quality suits. 

Herringbone: A distinctive V-shaped pattern created by alternating diagonal lines, commonly seen in tweed and heavier suits. 

Notch Lapel: The most common type of lapel, featuring a triangular indentation where the collar meets the lapel. 

Peak Lapel: A lapel style with upward-pointing edges, often found on more formal suits like tuxedos. 

Shawl Lapel: A rounded lapel with no notch or peak, typically seen on tuxedos and smoking jackets. 

Single-Breasted: A jacket style with a single row of buttons, considered more versatile and appropriate for most occasions. 

Double-Breasted: A jacket style with overlapping front flaps and two parallel rows of buttons, often associated with a more formal look. 

Vent: Refers to the slits at the back of the jacket that allow for ease of movement. Common types include single vent, double vent, and no vent. 

Flat Front: A type of trouser style with a smooth, non-pleated front, providing a sleek and modern look. 

Pleats: Folds of fabric sewn into the waistband of trousers, adding extra room and allowing for more comfortable movement. 

Break: The fold or crease created when trousers meet your shoes. Common types include full break, half break, and no break.  

Lapel Pin: A decorative accessory worn on the lapel of a suit jacket, often used to add a touch of personality or signify membership in a group or organization. 

Cufflinks: Decorative fasteners used to secure the cuffs of dress shirts, typically made from precious metals. 

Pocket Square: A small square of fabric, usually silk or linen, folded and placed in the breast pocket of a suit jacket as a decorative accent. 

Tie Bar: A clip used to hold a necktie in place, adding a polished and stylish touch to your outfit. 

Suspenders: Straps worn over the shoulders to hold up trousers, often favoured by those who appreciate vintage style or desire added comfort. 

Armed with this suiting glossary, you're now well-equipped to discuss and understand the nuances of men's suiting. Whether you opt for a bespoke suit made from luxurious cashmere or a tailor-made single-breasted linen suit, the knowledge you've gained will undoubtedly help you look like a suiting expert. So go ahead, confidently navigate the world of suiting, and make a lasting impression with your impeccable style. 


Locations we service include: Brisbane | Gold Coast | Sunshine Coast | Sydney | Melbourne | Los Angeles 

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