Established in 1842, Dormeuil is one of the world’s most renowned fabric houses. So renowned, in fact, that in celebration of the company’s 150-year anniversary, Paris shut off the lights of the Eiffel Tower. The brand has a reputation for finding and using the finest raw materials to produce the most beautiful materials. Dormeuil maintains its standard and credibility with annual excursions exploring new breeding farms around the world and selecting the most precious fibres worthy of the Dormeuil name. The fabric house is committed to beauty and excellence, taking specific pride in its innovation - which is exemplified throughout almost every new collection.
To illustrate, the Hamptons collection pushes to make changes towards environmental responsibility. While its aesthetic sings true to the name with a preppy, effortless, chic feel, the bunch works with biological cotton, traceable wool, recycled polyester (for performance and upcycling), and linen, the most eco-friendly fibre to provide a refreshing balance of style and sustainability. It is Dormeuil’s innovation which means it does not need to compromise to achieve one or the other, the brand explored and experimented in order to create fabrics that can serve both causes.
Another example of Dormeuil’s innovation is the Imperial Jade collection, interwoven with real jade gemstones. After two years of technical development, the super 140s wool at a weight of 230g is the first fabric of its kind. The stone is said to ward off evil and bring good luck, representing power and bringing countless other virtues, making it the perfect choice for the House of Dormeuil. To produce the fabric, jade is crushed and slowly infused into the fully traceable wool fibres which are then given the iconic soft finishing for a smooth and delicate drape. The gemstones create extra dimension within the material and amplify the green colour which is befittingly the iconic colour of the fabric house.
The whole Imperial Jade collection, and the Hamptons collection too, are the indisputable result of excellence and innovation. With these two values at the core of the company, its success and stunning fabrics as they are today are just the beginning.
Lanficio F.lli Cerruti is an italian fabric house with a mission to produce high-end, well-designed textiles to as many people as possible. Donning itself as an alchemist of beauty, the brand boasts disinctive styles that remain unmatched by a majority of its competitors and have offered excellent material durability since its 1700’s inception. So much so that, in the year 1917, Lanficio Cerruti produced over 170 000 metres of cloth to the army.
Cerruti makes use of an eight step process to create its fabrics. The first is sourcing and selecting raw materials. A stage at which the company invests a large portion of resources to ensure it begins creations with the best natural fibres available. The next step, combing, seperates and organises the fibres under a control system which monitors every millimeter of product to achieve consistent and significant precision. The third step is spinning the threads. In this step, the fibres are twisted and tested to find the material that possesses the necessary resistance to not only withstand the rest of the process but also to meet the standard of Lanficio F.lli Cerruti. The high performing threads are then prepared for weaving in the warping stage. This is the surprisingly complex operation of laying between 3,000 and 11,000 fibres perfectly parallel to each other without faults or knots. The fourth step is weaving and it is performed under strict quality control. It is the process of interworking the perpendicular fibres to the warped threads to come neatly together and form the fabric. These fibres are wefts and lay alternatingly over and under each of the warps until the weaving. After the material is woven it must be finished with a specific balance of water, steam, pressure and heat to give it the desired softness and smoothness. Cerruti describes this step of its process to be the stage that fibre re-discovers its own nature. The final step in the process is dyeing. Through masterful colour manipulation and innovation, the company realise over 8,000 new colours each year.
The constant driver behind each of these steps which differentiates Lanficio Cerruti from other fabric houses is quality and transparency. The condition of the fully traceable raw materials and final products is that of the highest standard in the industry. It is the combination of ancient practice wisdom and of contemporary technology which allows Cerruti to create such fine fabrics.
Founded in 1938 by Otto Hertz, Scabal is now one of the world’s greatest artisinal fabric weavers with a majority of its textile creation taking place in a 16th century Huddersfield mill. Being a family run business, and with the same spirit extending to employees, the company holds a strong respect for tradition; as such, it makes perfect sense that the fabric house maintain its flagship store at number 12, Savile Row. Interestingly, Scabal is not an English company. It was established and is based in Brussels, Belgium and is an acronym for Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande et Luxembourgeoise (Commercial Society of England, Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg). The company became international in 1970 and has been catering for handsome and excellent fabrics worldwide since.
With elegance at the forefront of Scabal’s work, its fabric strikes the perfect harmony of beauty and functionality. The styles are timeless and versatile, while simultaneously remaining bold and recognisable. Some iconic characters whose suits were constructed with Scabal’s artisanally woven materials include Marlon Brando, Al Pacino and James Caan in The Godfather, Robert DeNiro in Casino, and Leonardo DiCaprio in The Wolf of Wall Street. Not only that, but Scabal also supplies to brands such as Tom Ford, Balenciaga, Burberry, Christian Dior, and Saint Laurent.
While Scabal has a deep appreciation for heritage and has certainly made its mark in classic suiting with the character examples mentioned above, it is able to maintain its notable status via its willingness to go further. It pioneered the bunch book, now a staple for any fabric house, and broke the super 100’s, 120’s, 150’s and 180’s barriers with its high-end fabrics and experimental use of superfine wools from heritage farms. Scabal is constantly seeking to innovate and unexpectedly intertwine the benefits of traditional and contemporary weaving and technology to create products and processes for the future.
With each collection of fabrics designed to reflect a unique and inspiring travel destination, Piacenza has mastered the art of storytelling. From the animal whose fleece is delicately woven, to the final ream of fabric, they ensure that the journey of production is only the beginning of the product's life. With a mission to breathe life into their fabrics, every set released is created with the essence of a hand-picked, vibrant location including the likes of Cabo Blanco and Cartagena.
The company's process for developing its materials and the quality control measures it takes at every step create a standard of textile that honours the venerable nature of the brand. Production at Piacenza begins with the quality of life, environment and nourishment of the animal, simultaneously upholding its values and optimising the commercial value of the fibres, guaranteeing the best raw materials in the world. The company's point of difference lies in the combination of its agency maintained over each phase of business and the length of time that it has been at the forefront of the industry. Founded in 1733 and with records of members of the Piacenza family being wool merchants up to 100 years prior, the history of the company grants it the competitive advantage of experience.
The lasting success of Piacenza lies in its dedication to development in strategy and technology. While the company is rooted in heritage and tradition, it maintains a curiosity for unexplored raw materials and innovation for fabric design and business performance. It is the amalgamation of long-service know-how and innovation that best positions Piacenza to withstand the test of time as a credited, reliable brand and to be a pioneer for the industry creating new markets for their fabrics in France, Belgium, England, Switzerland, the Americas, and some parts of Asia.
For four generations, the Zegna family has sourced, selected and weaved the finest fibres in their endeavours to produce exquisite, luxury fabrics under the name. The Zegna Wool Mill, founded in 1910, has been the company’s greatest asset in producing materials for which they are now world-renowned. By means of diversification, vertical integration, and competition acquisition, the Zegna Group is a growing company with a uniquely savvy business strategy that allows it to engage in optimised quality control and preserve the craftsmanship of Italian textiles through the use of artisanal mills. In honour of Ermenegildo Zegna, and his spirit for innovation and ethical entrepreneurship, the Zegna group continues to expand and be a changemaker in the industry.
One significant movement for change advocated by Zegna is fabric and fashion sustainability. As one of the first brands to endorse and take part in the Fashion Pact in 2019, the company is committed to three key environmental goals towards stopping global warming, restoring biodiversity, and protecting the oceans. In addition to this, the Artistic Director of the company, Alessandro Sartori, has pioneered the #UseTheExisting project in the brand's efforts for a zero-waste future. It is not just an action plan for Zegna, but a mandate. By using more wool and complex fibres from pre-existing and post-consumer sources, the company strives to upcycle as much of its fabric production as possible and motivate others in the sector to do the same. With process and production innovation, Zegna is leading the industry by re-designing and re-inventing old and discarded fabrics to serve a second life of luxury and high performance. Zegna has outlined that the brand seeks to eliminate all fabric waste and ensure every piece of material is used in production, and that it is fully investing in this mission.
The company has not needed to make compromises in craftsmanship or artistry in its textile creation and maintain, or rather, exceed expectations of opulence and quality. The purified water of local mountain rivers located in Piedmont, Northern Italy, washes the Zegna Wool Mill’s fabrics, granting the fabrics their celebrated soft finishes. Zegna’s success and credibility lie in its ability to perfectly balance innovative and traditional practices, honouring the performance and functionality awarded by artisanship while equally looking to the future for a better company and product.
Loro Piana is in constant search of the highest quality, raw materials from the unexplored corners of the Earth. In the brand's pursuit of excellence, it is committed to perpetual improvement and strive for perfection in every collection of materials. By marrying the benefits and significance of both ancient traditions and cutting-edge techniques, Loro Piana is committed to producing the finest fabrics from the best fibres and takes pride in its understanding that excellence begins with sustaining biodiversity.
It all began in the 1800s in Piedmont, Northern Italy, where the Loro Piana family first started trading wool. But, it was not until 1924 that engineer and entrepreneur, Pietro Loro Piana, founded the official Loro Piana fabrics company. In 1941, it was taken over by Franco Loro Piana who built the brand's international reputation for its opulent, high-quality fabrics by exporting premium wool and cashmere after the war. With the onboarding of Franco’s sons, Pier Luigi and Sergio in the 1970s, the family business started to diversify. In 1994, Loro Piana secured an exclusive agreement with the government of Peru to process and export what the Incas refer to as “fibre of the Gods”, ultrafine vicuña fibres from the Andes. The deal was agreed upon with measures to protect the endangered species and take care of their natural environments in the process. As a growing family business with a name synonymous with some of the world's finest fabrics, LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), acquired an 80% stake in Loro Piana, leaving 20% with the family in 2013.
While the company does not require any further proof of status, the brand's success is further validated as Loro Piana today leads the world in processing cashmere and maintains its desire for excellence in every move. Sourcing the world’s best raw materials, including extra-fine merino wool from Australia and New Zealand, and rare cashmere from baby goats in some parts of Northern China and Mongolia, Loro Piana’s reputation for high-performing, well-crafted fabrics has never faltered.
Solbiati is a unique brand of fabric, with a mandate focused on the three core elements of culture, creativity and excellence. Culture at Solbiati consists of research, art, people and places to absorb the spirit of our time and translate it into the art of linen. Creativity is imagination, innovation, artistry, and rule-breaking. Despite the brand's old age, of 150 years, Solbiati continues to experiment and try new things not only with its fabrics but also in its processes. And finally, excellence. Letting the years of high-end service and production do the talking, Solbiati holds quality workmanship in the highest esteem. Having mastered excellence early on in the company’s journey, embracing elements of personality such as culture and creativity is the greatest point of difference for the linen specialists.
While Solbiati’s aesthetic has a distinctive character and charm about it, the brand is well-researched and refined to be the perfectly balanced formula of corporate eclectic with fabric designs rooted in heritage and culture. It is a timeless style with an overarching versatility that allows the fabrics to move from occasion to occasion in complete fluidity. Solbiati embraces its defining features by constantly seeking new techniques to communicate unique stories. Their innovation carries unexpected textiles into new terrain with seamless integration.
Solbiati’s reign on the production and exportation of the highest quality linen is a result of the company’s innovation and creativity. The brand’s unique understanding of art and culture paired with the know-how passed down through the many generations of operation allows the distinctive features of the linen to come to life. Solbiati makes use of high-tech looms to weave linen both pure and with other precious fibres and follows meticulously researched dyeing techniques to achieve exquisite pigmentation, not to mention the wonderfully soft finish. The company’s material brings a bright and energetic point of difference to the textile game while maintaining a luxurious quality. Solbiati offers the perfect balance of comfort, aesthetics and functionality in every material.