“Light as the breeze that blows over Vesuvius,” or so its proponents say. Neapolitan suiting seems tailor-made for this moment in time, meeting the needs of a generation raised on the ease and breathability of athletic attire, but unwilling to sacrifice sharpness in pursuit of comfort.'' The Rake...
The Neapolitan jacket features a high, snug armhole — essential in order to maintain freedom of movement while ensuring the suit front stays undisturbed — into which a significantly larger sleeve head is carefully fed and handstitched. Attaching a larger sleeve to a smaller armhole inevitably results in shirring known as ‘grinze’ — a puckered rippling, which needs to be recognised as magnificent craftsmanship and casual beauty.
It is across the shoulders that Neapolitan tailoring is at its most distinctive. The soft, ever-so-lightly or entirely unstructured shoulders of a Neapolitan suit, takes a true craftsman to create a shoulder that is soft, rounded, unpadded, and still remains flattering to the wearer.
The signature characteristics of a Neapolitan jacket include:
- an extended dart on the jacket front, running to the bottom seam of the skirt,
- a generous lapel, high of gorge and notch
- minimal lining — or no lining at all, merely piping on inner seams
- a boat-shaped chest pocket
- three-roll-two button stance
- patch pockets
- double handmade backstitch on the lapels and pockets
What we love about this production, is the heritage, the tradition, how it feels to wear and ultimately how it is cut and draped to the body.
Delivery Timeframe – Approximately 8 weeks.